• Helichrysum (Immortelle)
  • Helichrysum (Immortelle)

Helichrysum (Immortelle)

  • Scientific Name
    Helichrysum italicum
  • Family
    Asteraceae
  • Origin
    France, Italyetc.

Plant description

Helichrysum is a subshrub belonging to the Asteraceae family, reaching a height of about 60-100 cm. It features a woody, branched structure and thrives in dry, sandy soil. Despite its curry-like aroma emitted by the leaves, it is not botanically related to curry. Additionally known as “Everlasting” and “Immortelle,” the name “Everlasting” originates from the fact that its flower heads retain their yellow hue even after withering, symbolizing eternity. “Immortelle,” meaning “immortality,” finds predominant use in the fragrance industry.

Essential oil composition

Helichrysum
  • Helichrysum

  • INCI
  • Parts of Plant Used
    Whole Plant
  • Extraction Method
    Solvent Extraction
  • Extraction Rate
    0.3%
  • Notes
    Middle
  • Aroma Family
    Floral

Helichrysum Essential Oil Properties & Uses

Approximately 0.3% of Helichrysum essential oil is obtained by solvent extraction from the entire herb, resulting in dark yellow liquid. The primary components, Neryl acetate and γ-curcumene, contribute to its rich, sweet aroma. The fragrance industry employs the solvent extraction method, whereas steam-distilled essential oil is used for medicinal purposes. The aroma of Helichrysum essential oil is reminiscent of a sweet and spicy curry, with warm undertones that bear a subtle resemblance to honey. It harmonizes well with a wide range of essential oils, but it particularly complements citrus and woody scents, especially Lemon and Petitgrain. Due to its relatively mild fragrance, it is advisable to add a bit more of this essential oil to maintain a well-balanced aroma blend.

Essential oil composition

Essential oil composition

※An example of one batch production is shown here.

  • δ-Cadinene 3.6%
  • Camphene 2.5%
  • Aromadendrene 2.4%
  • Limonene 1.7%
  • Allo Aromadendrene 1.6%
  • Viridiflorene 1.6%
  • γ-Cadinene 1.5%
  • α-Pinene 1.3%
  • β-Caryophyllene 1.2%
  • Other components 82.7%

Functions and Efficacies

α-Pinene

α-Pinene
  • IUPAC Name
    (+)-α-Pinene: (1R,5R)-2,6,6-trimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-ene
    (-)-α-Pinene: (1S,5S)-2,6,6-trimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-ene
  • Molecular Formula
    C10H16
  • Molecular Weight
    136.23 g/mol
  • CAS No.
    (+)-α-Pinene: 7785-70-8
    (-)-α-Pinene: 7785-26-4
  • Structure
    Bicyclic monoterpene

Functions and Efficacies of α-Pinene

in slico in vitro ex vivo in vivo
Non-clinical Clinical
Mice Rats Guinea Pigs Insects Rabbits Human
Stress Reduction
Anti-bacterial Effects
Anti-inflammatory Effects

Stress Reduction

A study reported that brain tumors in mice that inhaled the fragrance of α-pinene became smaller. However, no melanoma cell growth was observed with the addition of α-pinene, indicating a potential psychological effect .1)

Anti-bacterial Effects

A study reported that α-pinene had an inhibitory effect on the growth of blue staining fungi, both when exposed to gas and when added to the culture medium2)

Anti-inflammatory Effects

It is known that the addition of lipopolysaccharide (LPS) in RAW264.7 cells induces the production of nitric oxide (NO), a substance that causes inflammation. A study reported that the production of NO was suppressed by the addition of α-pinene.3)

  • 1)Kusuhara et al., Biomedical Research, 2012
  • 2)岡村、木材保存、
  • 3)Kwak et al., Journal of Exercise Rehabilitation, 2019

Limonene

Limonene
  • IUPAC Name
    1-methyl-4-prop-1-en-2-ylcyclohexene
  • Molecular Formula
    C10H16
  • Molecular Weight
    136.23 g/mol
  • CAS No.
    138-86-3
  • Structure
    Monocyclic monoterpene

Functions and Efficacies of Limonene

in slico in vitro ex vivo in vivo
Non-clinical Clinical
Mice Rats Guinea Pigs Insects Rabbits Human
Stress Reduction
Memory Improvement
Anti-cancer Effects

Stress Reduction

A study reported that mice subjected to cold stress at 4°C (41°F) exhibited reduced elevations in blood corticosterone levels when treated with limonene. Furthermore, the same report demonstrated that limonene effectively lowered corticosterone levels in the blood of mice exposed to both physical and mental stress.1)

Memory Improvement

A study reported that when acetylcholinesterase reacts with acetylthiocholine in phosphate-buffered saline, the introduction of limonene inhibits the degradation by acetylcholinesterase. Acetylcholinesterase plays a role in the breakdown of acetylcholine, a hormone associated with memory and learning. In the same report, it was also noted that limonene suppressed memory impairment induced by scopolamine administration in rats.2)

Anti-cancer Effects

A report indicated that the consumption of limonene by breast cancer patients resulted in reduced expression of Cyclin D1, a protein crucial for cell division, within tumors.3)Furthermore, numerous other studies have also documented the anticancer properties of limonene.4)5)

  • 1)Fukumoto et al., Stress and Health, 2008
  • 2)Zhou et al., Nutritional Neuroscience,, 2013
  • 3)Miller et al., Cancer Prevntion Research, 2013
  • 4)Ajikumaran Nair S et al., Phytomedicine, 2018
  • 5)Chaudhary et al., Human & Experimental Toxicology, 2012

IFRA

Helichrysum (Immortelle):
No restrictions applied

※Only information for selected components are shown here.

References
Jennie Harding [Handbook of Essential Oil and Plant Oil] Tokyo-do Publishing, 2010.
Shinichiro Otsuki/Yukiko Ozaki [Scientific Name Etymology Dictionary of Herbs] Tokyo-do Publishing, 2009.
Jennie Harding [Illustrated Reference Book of Herbs] Sancho Publishing, 2012.
Freddy Ghozland/Xavier Fernandez [L’Herbier Parfume] Hara Publishing, 2013.
Kyohei Mikami [Comprehensive Guide to Essential Oils] Fragrance Journal, 2010.
Yuzuru Ogura [Dictionary of Plants] Tokyo-do Publishing, 1957.
Nobuo Ohashi [Dictionary of Medical Herbs] Tokyo-do Publishing, 2016.
Wanda Sellar [The directory of essential oils] Fragrance Journal, 1992.
Aroma Environment Association of Japan [AEAJ Aromatherapy Certification Official Textbook grade1&2] Sekaibunka, 1999.
Robert Tissearand [Essential Oil Safety] Fragrance Journal, 2018.
Ayako Berg [Aromatherapy Essential Oil Dictionary] Seibido Shuppan, 2022.
Azusa Annells [Enjoying Fragrance: An Illustrated Book of Aromas with Characteristics]Natsumesha CO.,LTD., 2023
(All written in or translated to Japanese.)
Supervisor
Yamamoto Perfumery co., ltd.